I arrived into Bogota on Wednesday with views of lush farmland with flower greenhouses from the airplane window. Columbians are incredibly friendly as I became fast friends with my two female seat-mates who gave me plenty of helpful tips, and the Spanish words for popular local dishes and a produce that only exists in Columbia like the lulu, a orange persimmon-like fruit commonly served as juice.
I shared a cab ($5) to La Candalaria with a New Yorker, who like me felt the need to leave the daily grind to explore his passion (in his case, he’ll be working on a local farm to learn about green roofing techniques). At my hostel, the Cranky Croc, I was given a tour by Julian (who also seems to be the party-planner for those who want to go out at night) and was impressed by all the facilities including a huge kitchen, a laid back TV room with hundred of movies, and a nice communal area with fellow travelers typing away on laptops (free wifi) to determine where they’re heading next. I’m staying in a six-person dorm at the top of the hostel (nice and quiet at night) with warm comforters, reading lights, and luggage lockers with electrical outlets inside (totally sweet!). Did I mention that it’s only $11 a night!
The La Candalaria district is a hub for backpackers as there are many hostels and bars within walking distance. During the day, you can wonder around to visit the area’s several museums (many are free and others are less than $2 to enter) and charming restaurants hidden behind inconspicuous doorways. At night, the area is known for being a bit dodgy so people tend to travel in large groups or just hang out in the hostel with local beer (my favorite is Poker and costs a dollar) and rum from the corner store.
One of my favorite aspects of hostels is the vast number of travelers, who become fast friends and incredible resources as many have been trekking around Columbia and various other Latin American countries. I spent the first night watching movies and meeting others (many of whom are already en route to Ecuador, the Caribbean coast, and various other places). I was beat after two days of travel and a bit intimidated by the warnings of the others about going out after dark.
I did venture across the street to Crazy Mongolian for a delicious stir-fry made from a buffet of fresh vegetables and meats, homemade sauces, and the pleasure of meeting the owner and chef, Jose, who speaks great English and happily shared an updated guidebook for me to read while he made my lunch/dinner. The cost was 11,000 peso which amounts to about $6.
On Wednesday, I joined with a motley crew of Australians and Canadians to visit see some sights and visit the Police Museum. It seemed appropriate as the police are everywhere in Bogota and after learning more about Columbia’s history, I really appreciate their service and hard work to transform this country from the dangerous, personal playground of Pablo Escobar in the 80s and 90s to a place that has adopted the slogan, “Colombia – the only risk is wanting to stay longer.” After three days here, I’d agree – though like anywhere, you have to be smart and there are stories of mugging and robberies, but most were the result of poor decision-making and bad luck.
Julian from the Croc took us to a fantastic lunch place where I had Bandeja Paisa, a traditional dish with white rice, red beans, ground beef, plantain, dirty rice, chorizo, arepa, avocado and a fried egg. The cost of this delicious and filling meal was 8,000 pesos – with a 1,000 peso tip, this translates to about $5.
The Police Museum is free and provides English-speaking police officers that explain the country’s tumultuous history and a time when Escobar offered a bounty for every officer killed – even awarding a Harley Davidson with gold and silver accents to his cousin for killing a hundred policemen. The museum is by no means a tribute to Escobar and the guides make a point to stress at every opportunity the devastating effect of cocaine on the country – a battle that continues to rage on in the jungles.
Our 18 year old guide, Sebastian, had shrapnel in his back from a landmine during his time in the jungle over the course of two years of service. He said that he was thankful to have his legs as many officers are not as lucky. Did you know that Columbia has the third most landmines in the world and is only second to Sudan in the highest number of displaced people?
Sebastian’s (nicknamed BamBam because he gets the big guns) favorite part of the museum is the roof which offers breathtaking views of the city, surrounding mountains, and the impressive Monserrate peak. Afterward, we stopped for some caffeine ($1.50) and did a bit of grocery shopping for breakfast supplies ($2.75). We hit up the Mongolian place for dinner again (it’s great food, cheap, and Jose isn’t hard on the eyes either) and hung out in the hostel the rest of the night.
Today, I hiked up Monserrate with my new Australian friends in the morning. The 1,500 step climb is really breathtaking – not just because of the view, but for the frequent stops to breath as air continues to thin another 700 feet above Bogota’s elevation of 2,574 feet. The trail just re-opened about a month ago and it is bustling with bare-footed pilgrims heading to the beautiful white church, young students, and some brave Bogotanos working out as they run up and down (some lapping us as we panted our way up).
The trail has been closed for renovations for the past two years and most guidebooks (Lonely Planet included) caution that the route is best done on the weekends as mugging is a common. For those coming to Bogota, that was four or five years ago.
So have no fear and do this gorgeous hike. I think this is a prime example of how much Bogota has changed and about the misperceptions that outsiders have about the place. Police were stationed every 300 feet on the trail and send a clear signal that this isn’t the crime-ridden Bogota of yesteryear. I’d also like to add that Washington, D.C. has a worse crime rate than Bogota.
After our trek, where we met many students and fellow travelers, we had lunch near the University (which is located right off the path). I had the almuerzo ejecutivo (executive lunch), a two-course meal with a small bowl of stew (ajiaco) and a plate of steak, rice and beans, and a small salad, for about 10,000 pesos or $5.50.
Tonight, we’re having a BBQ at the hostel that I hear is pretty darn good. After, a big group is heading to Andres Carne De Res in a party bus for a night of dancing. Andres is the place to go for a night. Though located in Chia, a small town about an hour from Bogota, that doesn’t stop throngs of people from going for dinner and then a spectacle of dancing mixed with cabaret. The party bus is perfect as drinks can be quite expensive at Andres as can transportation – two birds, one stone.
I’m heading North tomorrow to Villa de Leyva, a charming old colonial city in Boyacá in Colombia. Villa de Leyva is one of the few towns in Colombia that conserved all its colonial architecture. It is located 150 km north from Bogotá and about a three or four hour bus ride. I’ll be going with a few friends (including a fellow DCer) for a chill night by a bonfire.
Santa Marta on the caribbean coast will be my next stop. The hour and a half flight leaves on Wednesday from Bogota. I chose to spend $100 to avoid a 24 hour bus ride (that is only about $30 cheaper). Given how cheap everything is, why not take advantage of being under-budget. Til next post!
Hasta Luego Amigos!
