About two weeks ago, I flew North from Bogota to hit Colombia’s Caribbean coast with stops in Santa Marta, Taganga, Costeno Beach, Tayrona National Park, Barranquila (for Carnival), and Cartagena (with a night on the white beaches of Playa Blanca).
This post is about the bustling city of Santa Marta and the laid back lair for backpackers of tiny Taganga. I’ll also be using “we” at times as I’ve been traveling with a young German doctor, Ryan, who I met in Bogota the night before and happened to be on the same flight with the same route in mind.
Flying into Santa Marta, the first sight out of the plane’s window is the Caribbean ocean filled with massive barges and, with the runway just feet from the water, a sense that you’ll be having a water landing instead of hard ground. Emerging from the plane, the heat and humidity hits you after mild and balmy Bogota weather. With bags secured, it’s a $10 cab ride into town where I had booked a bed at La Brisa Loca for the night.
Cab rides have become quite an adventure as two-lane roads become four at times and motorcycles whizz in-between cars and buses. Despite the white-knuckles of passengers, drivers seem deftly skilled at navigating the traffic and I’ve always arrived safely to my destinations so far (knock on wood).
The “party” hostel, La Brisa Loca is a converted neo-classical mansion with a pool, in-house bar, and roof-top terrace with hammocks and yoga classes available in the evenings. There are also storage boxes under the beds which is great for storing valuables. You also receive a welcome beer upon arrival which is usually followed by more beers as things to do are limited in Santa Marta (note: the bar tab is paid when you check out, so keep track of drinks to avoid a shock at the end of your stay).
Santa Marta is mostly a stopover point for travelers heading East towards Taganga and Tayrona National Park. I also recommend stocking up on groceries and anything that one might need there as prices go up as you travel into more remote areas (especially Tayrona!).
With the beach-calling, I took a cab the following day into the fishing village of Taganga where I stayed for three nights (though the plan was only two). As we drove over the mountain, the view is quite breath-taking of a horseshoe-shaped bay surrounded by the Sierras. It’s a place where beach meets desert as cactuses replace palm trees.
After checking in at La Tortuga, an affordable hostel with a fantastic roof-top bar complete with hammocks and a BBQ (which we put to use our last night in Taganga), it was off to the beach. Jennifer is the bartender. She makes amazing frozen drinks, is a fantastic salsa dancer, and all-around awesome gal!
The beach in Taganga is filled with fishing boats and hippies, but you can hike along the cliffs to find several coves ranging in size and crowds. While looking for the path, we met Vicente, a local chef on his way to the beach.
He then brought us along with him to a remote fishing cove complete with a little shack that served up cold beers (Aguila) and fresh fish that you pick for about $7.
Check out the beautiful red snapper with before and after pictures below.
BEFORE
AFTER
Walking to the cove, you can see fisherman using the traditional atarrayas (round fishing nets) as they slowing tighten the nets and pull their haul to sell on the main beach around sunset.
Vicente was a great new friend and terrific guide to Taganga. We went out the first night for dinner around midnight where we enjoyed a salmon topped with shrimp, calamari, and a delicious coconut creme sauce.
After dinner, it was off for dancing at El Mirador (a bar overlooking the beach with a better view than music) and after that bar closed, we headed to Stragos where the owner opened its’ doors to new and old friends. We danced salsa until 5am and got back to La Tortuga as the sun rose.
The following day was similar with beach during the day and dancing at night (this time emerging from Stragos to sunlight and people heading to the beach to begin their day). After two late nights, I was adamant that we leave and head to the more relaxed Costeno Surf Camp and Beach. With no sleep, I packed my bag while Ryan slept on a hammock. With an hour until check out, I went up to wake him, but ended up falling asleep on a hammock to awaken two hours later.
With the room for one more night, I went with Vicente and Ryan back to our fishing cove and slept the whole day. That day, we bought a fresh tuna that weighed in at about 5 lbs which Vicente cooked that night and it was one of the best fish that I’ve ever had in my life. See before and after below.
BEFORE
AFTER
With a full belly and finally a good night’s sleep, we headed to Costeno Beach on Monday for some much-needed R&R. I’ll save that for the next post on Costeno and the breath-taking Tayrona National Park.
Hastas Luegos Amigos!
